At
the Dunton Plotlands museum Norman, an elderly volunteer is busy with a
hand full of visitors, they arrive later than expected since only smouldering
ashes provide a subsidiary heat. But eager to entertain, he winds up
the record player with gusto. The tone is sweet and clear, the song, ‘Its
a long way to Tipperary’. But the air is pungent and desperate for this old shack
barely hangs to together. Haven cottage was
an exemplar of the dream, and sits within a three plot site with an outside
toilet, Anderson shelter, vegetable
patch and workshops. A wooded picket fence and sunburst gates furnish the ‘Haven’.
Walking around the plotlands site, much of the remains of
previous sheds and cottages are now disguised with overgrowth and
hedges. Was it true that the now 184 demolished houses, built to varying levels
of sophistication could have imposed some kind of threat to the development of
the new town, seen as a controversial model for unsubsidised living, by being outside from Basildon Development Corporation's administrative control ?
The individualised
variety of the Plotland homes, the handcrafted look fits well with the preference
for house names over numbers The last remaining Haven cottage is bright
from the exterior, albeit the foundations are sinking into the ground, with internal
floors, ceilings and walls all giving away its structurally decrepit form. Inside
the 1940’s war period has been re translated for Plotland living, an impression
of ‘how it was then’ - although it may well never have been. It’s a great place;
you can rummage around in the undergrowth and find saucepans, toilets seats and
ceramics, total immersion.
The
impetus for the Dunton Plotlands is similar to Jaywick Sands. At the still
remaining self built settlement at Jaywick residents have long running problems with the
local council who refuse to maintain the roads and services to the estates, but
aside from the political, this can also present a conflict in differing
approaches to modernity. The Plotlands in Dunton are difficult
to attend without dwelling on the nostalgic and the missing parts of the
town. Representing a deviation
from the assent of administrative and machined modernity, an idealised longing
for the good life and self sufficiency, away from the slums of the East End.
Soon what was initially a weekender village became full time residences when
the Second World War broke out. The Plotlands did not have proper roads built,
and the brick tracks often became impassable in the winter months. They had
neither gas or electric but in this the Plotlanders also became untouchable,
they imposed there own siege in a denial of state dependence. Described by the
local authorities as ‘rural – slums’, but to its builders a pastoral idyll. The
return to pastoral living, as prophesied by Ebenezer Howard in 1902 when he
spoke of ‘… the return to the countryside’ albeit not expected in such a makeshift settlement.
The history of the
Dunton Plotlands, and other plotlands found along the Fenchurch,
Laindon, Southend railway began with the enticement of potential buyers from
the East End with free fares out to the countryside from as early as 1881, with punters being brought to ‘champagne
auctions’ on site. Families from Stepney, Poplar, Bromley by Bow, East Ham and
West Ham and Barking, bought up the cheap plots and returned to the city as
landowners. This was followed with stories of carpenters, opportune on London banks refurbishing there panelled interiors, harvesting the
discarded shop fittings for customisation of their self built homes. The self-built settlements constructed in the first four
decades of the century culminated in an unregulated ‘land grab’ by London families during the interwar years. Now demolished, the
landscape manicured back into a nature reserve. As part of the folklore, even today the Basildon Development Corporation
still receive
enquiries over the inheritance of plots that now lay in the middle of roads
or supermarket carparks.